Dual jewels - the Angus Esks

Sandy Forgan admits to being under the spell of the Esk - both of them!

There is really only one thing better than one great salmon river, and that’s two of them! In the east Scottish county of Angus this truism applies in good measure when applied to the two Esks. The River South Esk flows seaward through the historic and ancient burgh of Montrose, while the River North Esk makes its outflow into the cool North Sea just a few miles up the coast over the golden sands of St Cyrus Bay. ‘Esk’ means water or river - you may see its derivation from the Gaelic name for Scotland’s national drink uisghe beatha (the water of life), so strictly, the use of the word river is tautological!

It is surprising that the two rivers are quite different despite their close geographical proximity. The North Esk has exceptional runs of salmon, plus some sea-trout, whereas the South Esk is more noted for its runs of sea-trout, plus good runs of salmon. Regrettably, sea-trout catches have been in decline over recent years and there are many opinions as to why this may be, including that great bête noir of game anglers - mixed-stock interceptory netting. While not trying to lessen the crazy anachronism of coastal netting, other factors are influential.

There is little doubt that the effects of the recent warm, dry summers impact on sea-trout runs in several ways - it’s not just the cruel sweep of the mesh of shore netting. But let’s look at the good, rather than the ugly.

The two rivers are quite similar in size and run through similar terrain. One reason why one of the rivers favours sea-trout more than salmon, and vice versa, is that the South Esk has a greater proportion of its catchment in the high Grampian Mountains. And as a consequence, tends to run a degree or two cooler. One other quite interesting fact (am I sounding like QI presenter Stephen Fry ?) is that a cartographer acquaintance of mine stated that the South Esk seems to be around two miles shorter than it was when it was mapped in the 1920’s. Clearly, this is due to the straightening of curves and adding support to banks which would otherwise flood and cut side channels. The net effect is, of course, that the river must now run that little bit faster from its source to the sea - it is shorter after all. This too will impact on the quantity of suitable spawning and nursery areas for the alevins, parr and smolts, and all the complex milieu of physical dimensions of oxygenation, temperature, flow rate etc. All this was accomplished so that we may nowadays encourage the ‘set-aside’ management of more riparian farmland!

From the 3000 feet Munro mountains like Dreish and Mayar in upper Glen Clova snow-melt trickles from ice-bound north-facing corries. This is the birth-flow of the South Esk, amongst the ptarmigan and snow buntings, leaped over by countless red deer, and scrutinised by soaring golden eagles - a majestic nascence - justly fitting for such a lovely river. And so it has been for countless centuries. The ancient inhabitants of this part of Scotland - the Picts - carved salmon on many of their standing stones. If you are in the area, have a look at the stones at Aberlemno close to the South Esk between Forfar and Brechin.

The North Esk is born a little further to the north and east, where headwaters like the Tarf and Unich tumble through the high hillside heather to rest briefly for a while in Loch Lee. Then, resuming a lovely silver-birch clad course, through foam-flecked rocky pools, and over the geological jumble at the Rocks of Solitude near Edzell, where you may step in a single pace across the Highland Border Fault, the “Northie” slides by swift glides and long captivating pools through some of the richest farmland in Britain, towards its ultimate destiny in the sea.

These two rivers really are jewels. They sparkle, attract and charm, and hold incredible value - isn’t that what jewels do?

If you have not enjoyed their scintillating seduction then this may be the year when you first fall for them, but, be warned, to visit them is to start a long and meaningful relationship!

Fishing access is open and varied with many beats offering inexpensive salmon and sea-trout fishing. The season starts in mid-February, but fish tend not to run in significant numbers until the water warms up a little. Each of the rivers has a low dam (dyke) not far from the sea. On the South Esk there is one at Upper Kinnaird, and on the North Esk, at Morphie.These dykes (amongst others) may exert a little restriction of passage under some water conditions and tend to temporarily hold the ascending spring fish back until the water temperature lifts a bit, generally in late March to early April. As with many things natural however, there is always an exception or two, and in recent milder winters a greater number of fish take advantage of the warmer water to slip over the sill of the dyke and head upstream in these early months.

There are many attractive options for visiting Rods on the South Esk. For inexpensive, somewhat wild and unspoilt fishing you would find it hard to beat the water available through Kirriemuir Angling Club. This is in the upper reaches of the river overlooked by the dramatic mountain scenery of Glen Doll and includes miles of rocky pools and sparkling glides - best after high water when the fish have reached these pools, and an excellent chance of good sport amongst stunning surroundings.

The middle beats of the river are deservedly popular with some notable opportunities for visitors. Here the river swings through deeper pools and more-powerful glides and is often tree-lined. Sea-trout and salmon love these shady lies where they feel relaxed and comfortable - until your well-presented fly activates a potent response! In the lower beats, below Brechin, the river is heading towards the great expanse of Montrose Basin, a huge tidal bay where wildfowl are spectacularly numerous, and salmon and sea-trout ready themselves for their upstream migration. These lower beats also have good access for day and visiting anglers.

On the River North Esk the overall topography is similar to that of the ‘Southie’ with rocky glen headstreams giving way to middle-river pools and pots then, as the river slides inexorably towards the sea, some more-sedate pools and glides. The upper river has several excellent opportunities and good access to fishing, and, as you would expect, the best fishing follows a rise in level. This is classical spate-river fishing although salmon creep between the pools, often under the cover of darkness, in surprisingly low water. Don’t rely solely on the thought that the water has to be high, or have been high... truly, there is always a chance of a fish!

Each of the Esks is small enough not to need long or heavy fly-rods. Many anglers are very content with 12-14 feet salmon rods and correspondingly lighter lines. The pools tend to be more intimate than larger rivers and you can read them more easily, working out where the fish are most likely to be lying. As a result, under normal low-water, clear conditions, smaller flies are favoured around size 8 to 12, and, as the depth of the lies is not excessive, floating and intermediate lines are generally best. You may not have to cast all that far, but accuracy is advantageous and the ability to place your fly at the head of a run which disappears under overhanging trees often gives you a significant edge. Spinning is a well-recognised technique especially in higher water conditions. Relatively light-weight gear is best with small devons, rapallas, spoons and flying-C’s favoured over other lures. It may be that for those anglers who feel a little intimidated by the great pools of the major rivers, this type of salmon fishing will suit them better. Let’s face it, it suits everyone who enjoys that heart-stopping first pull of a fresh fish!

Lighter tackle is recommended for summer sea-trout fly-fishing. Rods of around 10 feet with line weights of 7 or 8 are best. The sea-trout range mostly between 1.5 lb to 4 lb with some lighter finnock and the odd much larger beauty. The most popular fly for sea-trout on the Esks is undoubtedly the Stoat’s Tail (in each of its various versions, involving the elaboration of jungle cock cheeks, silver body, tinsel wing strands etc), whilst the Cascade, Golden Willie Gunn, and Ally’s Shrimp patterns all account for many Esk salmon. Try tube flies too, and these may best be used with double (even barbless) hooks, especially in the spring when all fish must be returned.

On each river there seems to be optimum times to encounter fish. These may well be influenced by tides although exact attribution to tidal or lunar cycles is not straightforward. Sometimes a run of fish does come through the lower beats “off the top of the tide” and this is fairly obvious in terms of its visibility and timing, but there is another peak of activity which may not strictly align with the height of the sea. At these magical times it is not uncommon for all the members of your party to be playing fish at the same time! Often too, you catch more than one in consecutive casts, and there is a genuine lesson to learn here - if your fly and the way you are fishing it are attractive for one fish, then it stands to reason that these same conditions may well favour another fish to be attracted - so don’t stand there admiring your fish and congratulating yourself, get back in the river and try for repeated success!

For those that have not yet sampled the sensual delights of night fishing for Scottish sea-trout, then I plead with you here... please, please, please give it a try. It is not easy. It is a sport which demands all sorts of skills that you probably have not yet fully developed (like the patience of Job). It is so irritating to unravel birds-nest tangles without flood-lighting the whole of the pool and disturbing the fish, and gauging where your fly might be when you can’t see it. You must be at ease with wandering about in the dark, and not be spooked by the tremendous range of nocturnal noises which will sound so much louder when you are sight-deprived! The snuffle of a badger at ultra-close quarters, the staccato call of a roe deer, or a sudden fox bark can give you quite a start. Then there are all the other noises which you can’t quite recognise... you get used to it!

I was taught that you must not start night-time sea-trout fishing until you cannot quite see the outline of the stones within the water. The dusk must have deepened to that lovely near-darkness that persists through the faint-light of high northern summer nights (in Orkney and Shetland it is called the ‘simmer dim’). In any case, the sea-trout will let you know when they are ready. You may walk up and down the pools under the brightest of mid-day sun searching with your polarising specs for the elusive silvers, and probably fail to see any, or many. But at last light, the intermittent splash becomes more prevalent and regular until the river comes alive, you scarcely know where to cast, and you cannot believe there are so many fish in the pools - they seem to be everywhere, and yet you didn’t see them at lunch-time today. See if that wee silver stoat will work its magic!

The jewel-like Esks offer so much. There is plenty of good accommodation within easy reach and a wide range of historic sites, interesting local towns to explore, great scenery in the glens and golf (everywhere!). As we have seen, salmon will be in the river from day one, the build-up of fish continues throughout spring until early summer when temperatures reduce the runs. Sea-trout runs tend to peak in late June, though recent years have seen this being into July, but a few are caught well before the magic night-fishing peaks. Late summer and early autumn activity depends so much upon water levels - fresh runs will come into the river whenever a rise encourages the fish to run. September and October fishing can be spectacularly successful with runs of salmon from every tide. True, the fish in middle to higher beats may have a higher proportion of colour but there are fresh fish amongst them - trust me!

 
 
 

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